Amherst is the quintessential college town and New England village. Here, townies and college students live in an uneasy balance between good and evil. The townies complain of loud parties, drunk driving, high taxes to pay for extra police and fire services, and a shifting economy that increasingly has room for bars, restaurants, and gift shops but not hardware stores. The college students say they feel bad for the townies because “this is a college town and there's gonna be some parties”. So it is that (some) college students urinate from the balconies, sell drugs as they cruise across campus, burn Dumpsters, and ride the buses every Friday and Saturday night in drunken stupors. But if it weren't for them and their oodles of disposable income Amherst and the surrounding towns would be quite different. Whether that's good or bad depends on where you work and whether you'd still have a job without them.

Despite the common bilateral resentment between the townies and college students Amherst can be anjoyable destination and a casual tourist might never notice the polemic. If you do visit Amherst you'll find some good food, a few nice bookstores, and some fince country scenery.

Know that there are three bus stops in Amherst: Amherst Center, UMass Amherst, and Hampshire College. There are also several stops in surrounding towns so decide where you wan to be and what you want to see then pick the best stop for you.

Use this stop if you want downtown or Amherst College. Here, southbound buses board passengers at the curb on South Pleasant Street across from Amherst Common. Northbound buses set down on South Pleasant Street at the Amherst Common. Downtown is just a block away (north) and easy to see at the top of the hill.

In downtown the Peter Pan Bus stop is either at the Amherst Common or across the street (depending on which way you're heading). During the day it's easy to find your way around and the buses run as often as every 15 minutes during the academic year. Walk one block north and enjoy downtown.

But if you arrive here at night it can be unnervingly quiet. The shops are closed and the buses run every hour or so. When the cold wind picks up you might regret being here. If you know someone in town have him or her meet you off the bus. If you plan on finding a hotel and don't have reservations or a plan you could be in trouble. The hotels are a mile or two down the hill (Route 9) and if you have to walk, with bags, in the dark, on a busy road with no sidewalks, you won't enjoy your first impression of town at all.

Board buses at the Haigis Mall on Massachusetts Avenue but buy your tickets at the Campus Center Hotel lobby.

At the University of Massachusetts campus stop buses board and set down by the Haigis Mall which is centrally located but offers no services excepting a few connecting buses around town. The same is true of the stop at Hampshire College. The rule for all three Amherst stops is 'know before you go' and try to arrive here during the day when it's a lot easier to get around.

Board buses on campus at the bus shelter near the library.

Amherst is a college town in a rural setting. Downtown is geared almost exclusively to the college crowd (bars and food) but has a few useful and fun activities for visitors. You probably won't stop in Amherst as a destination in its own right but if you're here to visit a friend, attend a concert, or see a game you'll have a good time. The weather is fine from April to October but the town is small enough that the bitter cold and sky high snow drifts of winter won't deter an intrepid traveler.

Make sure you spend a day strolling downtown's shops and restaurants and check the banner over South Pleasant Street to see which events are coming to the Amherst Common. During the summer the Common frequently hosts fairs and a farmers' market. For exercise or fun look for the Norwottuck Rail Trail which winds from Amherst, across Hadley, and into Northampton. With only a few road crossings the trail is a bucolic and relaxing route across the region. Look for lots of bike traffic on weekends.

To see what's going on while you're in town look for the Valley Advocate (free on many corners) or the Hampshire Gazette but skip the Springfield Republic.

If the city is steeped in history (Boston, Philly, San Francisco) give a few paragraphs here, maybe one for each century. Otherwise, one paragraph to describe the founding of the city, it’s growth and regional importance is fine. There is no history test on this trip.

There's nothing like stepping off a bus into a city you've never seen before. The smells, sights and sounds can excite and frighten even the most intrepid traveler. To make the most of your time in any city, be it a day or a month, spend a few minutes learning the neighborhoods before you go. This will help you plan your trip and orient you to your surroundings. This section briefly describes the most popular and tourist-friendly neighborhoods in the city starting with the neighborhoods nearest the bus station and fanning out from there.

Describe the neighborhood nearest the bus station, the one that passengers would see if they stepped off the bus and walked a block or two. Use all of your senses: sights, sounds, smells, first impressions? And are your first impressions right or does this neighborhood surprise the visitor?

What’s another nearby neighborhood that the passenger might see or visit within a few minutes of the bus station?

Tip: if you’re writing sabout several neighborhoods (or places to eat etc) take some time between writing sessions. Take a day or at least a few hours. This prevents your writing from becoming repetive or formulaic.

Give a few sentences about transportation in the city. Is there anything to walk to near the station? Are we relying on buses or taxis while we’re in town? Sum it up subjectively but give objective examples in detail below.

Amherst College and the University of Massachusetts straddle downtown so most everything you need is within walking distance most of the year. Some of the sidewalks are in rough shape and look for ice and snow from October to April. The town does a decent job of clearing paths but they have low standards for snow clearing outside the immediate downtown area. There are plenty of well-marked crosswalks and walk signals around downtown and near the main campus but drivers here are young, inexperienced, and aggressive. Don't expect them to stop, ever. Smaller roads and roads outside of downtown have no sidewalks at all so walk on the shoulder facing traffic. We've taken 20-mile walks across the region and greatly enjoy the flat terrain (except in town) and the fine country roads (again, except in town).

Most bus routes around Amherst are operated by UMass Transit Services (under control by PVTA) except Route 43 which is operated directly by the PVTA. Bus routes travel far and wide across the Amherst region and if you hop on the wrong bus or miss your stop you could be in for a pleasant tour of the valley. Just stay on the bus till it loops back into town. The fare is free except on Route 43 ($1.25) and the fleet includes several newer, low-floor buses. Avoid the buses during rush hour when passengers are cattle en route to the slaughter house.

On weekdays during the academic year some bus lines run as often as every fifteen minutes. But check the schedules carefully because there is no service at all on some days and very limited service on Sundays and during school breaks.

The Franklin Regional Transit Authority (FRTA) offers one bus route between Amherst and Greenfield running once each morning and afternoon.

PVTA

UMTS

FRTA

With about 30,000 college students in one town you can expect a decent bus system and here it is. Run by the PVTA and UMass Transit Service, the local buses are decent and cover a lot of ground from about 7:00AM to after midnight during the school year. But expect crushing crowds every morning and afternoon especially along routes 30 and 31. Even with buses running every 15 minutes it's hard to accommodate so many folks trying to get to class on time. Caveat: all of the bus drivers are UMass college students. They are poorly trained and supervised but most are honest and try to be safe. Also, look for police officers who ride buses on riday and Saturday nights to keep the drunk passengers in line. Be glad when you see a cop on the bus, drunken college students in an enclosed space is an ugly combination.

Buses in the Amherst area operate on an honor system. Technically the fare is $1.25 each way but these buses are subsidized by transit fees at the local colleges. Don't try to pay the fare, the drivers have nowhere to put the money. The one exception is the B43 route which runs from Amherst College, through downtown Amherst, to UMass, and down Route 9 to Northampton. This useful route costs $1.25 each way. Warning: we once got thrown off this bus for standing, yes, standing. Don't ask.

FRTA Route 23 follows a beautiful, wooded route in rural western Massachusetts. The fare is $3.00, cash only. Have the exact fare ready before you board or you may be denied entry. Tough town isn't it! In Amherst, especially on campus, bus stops are clearly marked with standard Bus Stop signs but FRTA also offers flag service (outside of Amherst). This simply means that you can call the FRTA and let them know where you'd like to be picked up, anywhere along the published route, or you can wave down the bus as it nears. Make sure the driver can clearly see you, stand in a well-lit spot, and wave at the driver as the bus approaches. In all cases, arrive at your bus or flag stop at least 5 or 10 minutes before your scheduled bus time. As always, in a small town like this, check the schedules carefully because there is no service at all on some days and very limited service on weekends if at all. If you're not sure if you're on the right bus ask the driver.

There are a couple small-time taxi operations in Amherst, really just one-man owner/operators in minivans but be glad for them. When the buses aren't running or you need a ride to a distant corner of town call a taxi. There is exactly one marked taxi stand in Amherst; it's at the Amherst Common next to the PVTA bus stop on South Pleasant. Unlike other towns, taxi drivers in Amherst rarely wait for bus passengers, or anyone else for that matter. Though taxi drivers would probably stop when flagged from a street corner or bus stop, most folks in Amherst just call to arrange a ride. So if there's no taxi waiting for you when you get off at your stop, and there probably won't be, just call:

Amherst has great bus options during the academic year and decent service in summer and winter breaks. Unless you're traveling to the Quabbin or some other distant spot rely on your feet or the PVTA buses.

If you do want to rent a car you have two choices in Amherst. One is the overpriced North Amherst Motors on Sunderland Road (take the 31 bus to North Amherst and walk 100 yards north) which has a decent selection but ridiculous pricing. Your other option, if you can handle the incessant upselling and occasional bait-and-switch routine, is Enterprise on College Road (Route 9) down the hill from Amherst College (just past the railroad overpass). They offer good weekend rates (pick-up Friday, drop off Monday) and decent rates at other times. We don't recommend either service but at least you have two options.

Traffic in and around Amherst can be nuts, especially on Friday afternoons or when there's a game in town, and avoid commencement week at all costs when roads are closed all over town. Expect a lot of aggressive driving from the inexperienced college kids and overeager townies.

This is a small town with several hotel options. All but two hotels are on Route 9 in Hadley so learn to love the B43 bus service which is the only bus that serves the hotels.

Priceline and Hotwire offer fair deals on hotels near Amherst but their “zones” are vague and include Hadley and Northampton too. Try these services for a good deal but be prepared to land a hotel on Route 9 with poor access to town. Do not select Chicopee, Holyoke or Springfield. These towns are near enough to Amherst if you have a rental car and know the area but they're a bit dodgy and not worth saving a few bucks, ever.

We recently had an extended stay at the Econolodge at $64 a nioght plus tax,. The rooms are clean and comfortable but the traffic from Route 9 can be a bit much and the bus stop is across a nasty Wal-Mart parking lot. But it has good access to Whole Foods and a few other chain shops.

The Campus Center Hotel is managed as a training facility for students at UMass and it's rooms haven't been updated since the 1970s. The hulking Stalinesque structure embarrasses most students except fdor the occasional fan of Brutalist architecture. Unless you're here on official campus business look elsewhere for a hotel room.

There are no hostels in Amherst or nearby but some folks have set up a website to discuss this glaring oversight.

Perhaps the best way to travel the country (and the world), couch surfing is a post-modern concept that shows exactly how useful the Internet can be. Travelers register on-line and search the cities where they want to stay. Members offer the opportunity to host visitors (on their couch, floor, spare room) and describe themselves and their availability in an on-line profile. Then users contact each other, discuss plans, preferences and availability and decide whether to commit to an overnight or extended stay. Both parties have the option to refuse an offer without explanation and with no hurt feelings. The service advertises nearly one million users around the world so if you're ready for an adventure and can plan ahead, consider couch surfing. Interested travelers should visit couchsurfing.com and wikipedia.org to learn more.

By now everyone in the world uses Craigslist so you're probably familiar with the site. It's an on-line bulletin board where users freely post ads for everything from used toothbrushes for sale to erotic adventures. In between you can search for paid vacation and short-term rentals under housing. It means planning ahead and you might have to send a deposit to the advertiser. Most users are honest and intrepid travelers can find an affordable, safe, clean place to stay for a few nights. But if you're going to do this why not try couch surfing first? It's free so if you get to the house and don't like what you see you can leave. You also have the option to chat with your host before you ever leave home and couchsurfing.com offers some degree of reassurance with its referral and verification system. So search the Craigslist postings, but keep couch surfing in the back of your mind.

Most cities offer an eclectic menu of restaurants but some cities are best divided into dining areas by neighborhood. Think about the food options in the city. Pick a few cheap eats, a couple mid-range choices and one exotic option. Try to include places that are eith MUST SEE or out of the way and easily missed but deserve a visit. Be creative.

Ready for an adventure? If you like fresh fruits and vegetables look for any one of the dozens of farm stands around Amherst, Hadley, and Sunderland. Seriously consider taking bus route 31 to Sunderland. Get out at Sugarloaf Estates (an apartment complex and the last stop before the bus turns around). Walk down Hadley Road or Old Amherst Road and see what's in season. Bring cash and learn to love the honor system. Pick what you want, grab a bag and slip your cash into the lockbox. We can't tell you what you'll find on any given day but we've enjoyed fresh peppers, cucumbers, onions and other goodies in the summer.

Pizza (Downtown) $

Antonio's
North Pleasant Street
Amherst, MA 01002

Telephone: 555 555 5555

Hours:

“It will change your life” we heard one happy customer describe Antonio's to a friend. This little shop sells nothing but pizza by-the-slice or whole and a few drinks but oh, what a selection. They aim for crazy, heavy toppings with daily specials. One slice will fill the average eater and it'll only set you back about $3.00 plus a drink. Look for a seat outside because the tiny seating area fills quickly. Warning: avoid this shop in mid-afternoon when the local schools let out. Gangs of high-energy teens flock here in search of cheap eats and crowd the sidewalks.

Mexican (Downtown) $

Bueno y Sano
1 Boltwood Walk
Amherst, MA 01002

Telephone: 413 253 4000

Mexican with an American twist, Bueno y Sano offers decent burritos and quesodillas (we recommend the spinach) but the tacos are really just tiny burritos, seriously. No complaints though, the food is affordable ($2.50 for a meaty 'taco') and tasty. Expect long lines at lunch time.

To get there from downtown turn down Main Street and take a left under the arch at Boltwood Walk. Bueno y Sano is the alley.

Asian (Downtown) $$

Fresh Side
39 S. Pleasant Street Amherst, MA 01002

Telephone: 413 256 0296

For Asian food with a local twist visit Fresh Side on South Pleasant Street. The menu includes tea rolls, rice dishes, soups, and pasta dishes. The flavors are excellent and you can get a small meal for just a few dollars though the best dishes (we recommend the five-spice beef rice dish) cost closer to $10. Order at the counter and your food will delivered to your table but be prepared for a wait. Although the kitchen is fully staffed the dishes are made to order and can take awhile. Bring a book, it's worth the wait.

Amherst is a dense college town with numerous useful services but some can be hard to reach. Expect numerous restaurants, bars, book stores, and ATMs right in town but you'll have to go a little farther for laundry and bag storage.

There is no bus station in Amherst so you're on your own for baggage. If you're staying in a hotel you can drop your bags there but most hotels are on Route 9 at least a mile or two from town. Plan ahead.

In downtown your only hope is the public library (on Amity Street) or at a restaurant. Try Subway or if you're near campus just try any public building.

A. J. Hastings
45 South Pleasant Street
Amherst, MA 01002

Telephone: 413 253 2840

Store Hours: 7:00AM to 8:00PM Monday through Saturday and 6:15AM - 5:00PM Sunday

Definitely head to A.J. Hasting's at 45 South Pleasant Street in downtown (across from the Amherst Common). They're not cheap but they offer a good selection of “Amherst” gear and postcards as well as magazines and greeting cards. Also consider the even more expensive campus store at UMass (North Pleasant Street).

Amherst offers three decent post offices all on bus routes and easy to reach. Expect long lines at the University Drive office at all hours and long lines in downtown around lunch time. The most convenient location is the North Pleasant Street branch (downtown) but the University Drive offers more services (passport applications). The North Amherst branch is small and out of the way but rarely has a line.

There are no full-service grocery stores in downtown but you can fresh bread at Henion Bakery and random other groceries at CVS, both on North Pleasant Street in downtown.

For a full-service grocery store take the Route 37 bus to Big Y on University Drive or Stop & Shop on Route 9 (Northampton Road). The bus takes a 10- or 15-minute layover at Stop & Shop so if you hurry you can grab a few items and take the same bus back into town. For more time stop in Big Y, the bus makes a loop and returns in about 20 minutes. Expect higher prices at Big Y.

If you love Trader Joe's and Whole Foods take the B43 bus toward Northampton / Hampshire Mall ($1.25 each way). Get out at JC Penney for Trader Joes and Wal-Mart for Whole Foods. This route operates every 20 minutes when school's in session but less often in the winter and summer breaks.

If you love fresh fruit and vegetables take the Atkins Corner bus to Atkins Farm. This is a specialty grocery store with a small lunch counter and ice cream stand plus all the traditional packaged foods. It's a bit of a hike and the bus schedule is less-than-accomodating but worth a trip if you have the time. Check the bus schedules before you go!

Head down Amity Street to the corner of University Drive. In the small shopping plaza you'll find a large but mediocre laundromat that caters to college students. To get there walk down the hill from downtown or take the Route 37 bus (free, runs once per hour daily).

Hopefully you never need medical care while you're on the road, and if you do we hope that you have medical insurance. In the United States you are guaranteed medical treatment at any hospital's emergency room (ER) regardless of your ability pay even if you are not insured. But each state determines how much care uninsured patients get.

There are no hospitals or medical clinics in Amherst (unless you're a student at a local university). You're nearest medical care is in Northampton which is at least 15 minutes west of town plus traffic.

NORTHAMPTON

Cooley Dickinson Hospital
30 Locust Street
Northampton, MA 01060

Telephone: 413 582 2000

Directions:

To get to Cooley Disckinson Hospital from Amherst take the B43 bus to Northampton Center and transfer to the R42. This trip can take an hour or more so if you need help consider a taxi or call 9-1-1.

Describe the city’s activities and lifestyle in general. Is it a beach city with a hopping nighlife (Miami) or a quiet college town with some great bookstores? Give us an overview of what to expect and then describe a few free and inexpensive options below.

Amherst College Museum of Natural History

Museum of Natural History
11 Barrett Hill Road
(Amherst College campus)
Amherst, MA
Telephone: 413 542 2165

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 11:00AM - 4:00PM

Amherst College offers two great museums, each with free admission (though donations are always welcome). The Museum of Natural History recently opened and deserves glorious praise for its attractive design, open layout, pleasant atmosphere, and interesting exhibits. Look for dinosaur fossils, gems, local geology exhibits, and dinosaur tracks. A great way to spend a couple hours in Amherst.

Directions

Finding this museum is a challenge. On-line mapping services don't recognize its street address so print a map of the campus to bring with you.

From the intersection of routes 9 East and 116 South, walk 3/10 of a mile down the hill, following route 9 East. Just before the purple and white railroad bridge, take a right onto (unmarked) East Drive, and walk past the Campus Police Building. At the stop sign, turn right up (unmarked) Barrett Hill Road. The museum is a red brick building with a metal roof. The main entrance is located approximately half way up Barrett Hill, facing the south. There is a small stone patio in front of the entrance.

Amherst College Mead Art Museum

Amherst College Mead Art Museum
Telephone: 413 542-2335
Summer Hours: Tuesday through Sunday 9:00AM to 5:00PM
(and until 8:00PM the first Thursday of each month)
Closed Mondays

Directions

Finding this museum is a challenge. On-line mapping services don't recognize its street address so print a map of the campus to bring with you.

The Mead Art Museum is located in the center of campus, just east of the main quadrangle. The gray stone Stearns Steeple is located just outside the museum’s front entrance.

Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation

Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation
Telephone: 413 545 5993
Hours:

Mt. Sugarloaf offers a commanding view of the Connecticut River, the Pioneer Valley, and the Pelham and Berkshire Hills. Consisting of two peaks, North and South Sugarloaf, the Reservation offers picnicking, scenic viewing and hiking. An auto road winds to the summit, making South Sugarloaf Mountain accessible by private automobiles. Available on the summit is a pavilion for scenic viewing and picnicking.

Mt. Sugarloaf, composed of a prominent sandstone rock called Sugarloaf Arkose, is a fine example of the Connecticut Valley's geological history. From its summit can be seen some of the best scenic views of the broad agricultural landscape of the Connecticut River Valley.

Directions

Mount Sugarloaf is about 10 miles northwest of downtown Amherst. The PVTA offers daily bus service…

Same as above but these cost a few dollars each.

Money is no object here. Passengers might not parttake in this adventure but tell us about it anyway. Maybe it’s worth checking out even if we can’t afford it.

If you only have one day in town consider this:

If you're passing through New England and you have and you have a day to spend in Amherst spend a few hours at Amherst College. Climb to the top of the hill and enjoy the view overlooking south Amherst. Then enjoy two small but free museums on campus: the Mead Art Museum and the Museum of Natural History both located on campus. The Mead Art Museum offers interesting standard displays of ancient stone carvings and period paintings as well as a fine showcase of changing exhibits. The Museum of Natural History offers an impressive display of fossils, gems, and displays discussing the geology of Amherst. Between the two museums you could easily spend all day or as little as two hours. Finish your day with lunch at any of the small restaurants in downtown Amherst. It's not New York City but it's an easy way to spend a day, especially in good weather.

Both museums are closed on Mondays. Hours vary by season so check with the website of each museum.

To get there from downtown Amherst walk south on South Pleasant street to the corner of College Road (Route 9). The Amherst College campus is on the left, up the hill. For exact directions ask a student or visit the campus map on-line.

Amherst College Museum of Natural History
11 Barrett Hill Road
Amherst, MA 01002-5000
Telephone: 413 542 2165

Mead Art Museum
Amherst College P.O. Box 5000 Amherst, MA 01002-5000

Telephone: 413 542 2335

Amherst is known for its literary heritage (Robert Frost, Emily Dickinson), its colleges, and its natural beauty. When you're done at the museums and you want a break from the drunk college students head outside. Take the Norwottuck Rail Trail to Northampton or slip over to Deerfield for the best view around.

Adventure!

The best view in all of Western Massachusetts is from the peak of Mt. Sugarloaf in South Deerfield. It's a literal hike to get there but on a nice day the reward is worth the trip. Without a car this is an all-day adventure from Amherst. It involves taking a bus to Sunderland (Route 31) and walking a mile or so across the river or you can take the Deerfield express (Route 46, very limited service) bus and get out at the foot of the hill. Because the Deerfield bus runs so infrequently we suggest the following:

Take the 31 to Sunderland and tell the driver you're looking for Garage Road (it's a common stop near the town center). At Garage Road get out and walk back along Route 116 about 500 feet and go to the Sugarloaf Frostie. This delicious hamburger stand offers all the tradition summer treats like hot dogs and french fries with ice cream for desert. It's only open from about late-April to October and the hours vary by the season so avoid the off season or cold/rainy days. Get lunch and sit under a shade tree out back, you'll need the rest before your hike. From Sugarloaf Frostie take a right on Route 116 and walk back toward Garage Road (caution: no sidewalk here!). Pass Garage Road and continue on Route 116 through the intersection (Sunderland truly is a one-stoplight town and this is it) and over the bridge. By now you'll see Mt. Sugarloaf towering above. It's only 700 feet to the top but it's a steep climb. At SuGarloaf Street take a right and there's the main entrance to the mountain. Now you have two choices: climb the paved road with occasional traffic or hike the wooded trail. If you take the trail look for the trailhead about 50 away from the road, near where the cars are parked. The trail is obvious and well blazed until you near the top. At one point the trail meets the road and curves around the guardrail. If you lose sight of the trail here don't panic, just walk up the road. At the top enjoy a remarkable view of the Pioneer Valley. Bring a camera.

To get back to Amherst simply roll down the hill, take a left at Sugarloaf Street and a left on Route 116 but caution. When you get back to Sunderland stand at the same bus stop at Garage Road where you got off a few hours before. Route 31 follows a circular route and the bus back to Amherst boards right where you got off.

Briefly describe how to get in and out of the city. Is the airport far away (Denver)? Are there no trains (Phoenix)? Then describe the airport, trains, and boats in great detail below. This part really matters.

There are two trains a day from Amherst - one southbound to DC and one northbound to Vermont. The DC service is frequently sold out (it stops in New York en route) so plan ahead. The station is attractive and small but offers no services whatsoever. Look for it on Main Street a few blocks down the hill from Amherst center.

The nearest airport is Bradley Internation (BDL) in Windsor Locks, CT. There are afew companies that offer van and rideshare service between Amherst and the airport but you might consider flying in to Boston instead. From there you can take a bus to Amherst.

A short-lived discount airline offered service out of Chicopee in 2007 but they're long gone and we don't expect any similar service any time soon.

To learn about a nearby city please select from the list below.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
CHICOPEE, MASSACHUSETTS
DEERFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS
GREENFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS
HOLYOKE, MASSACHUSETTS
NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS
SOUTH HADLEY, MASSACHUSETTS
SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS