BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Serving: Boston, Cambridge, Somerville, Brookline

SOUTH STATION BUS TERMINAL

Boston's South Station Bus Terminal is one of the newest, cleanest, and most accessible stations in the country. The building is owned and operated by the MBTA which constructed the terminal in the mid-1990s to coalesce the city's several stations then operated by various bus companies. The massive silver-colored building straddles the commuter rail and Amtrak train tracks at Boston's South Station which sits next door to the bus terminal. Buses (usually) enter the terminal from special, bus-only highway off ramps built as part of Boston's Big Dig. Local passengers enter from the street level either through the main entrance or from next door via the train station.

Inside, the terminal is shaped like an exclamation point on its side. The service area with the ticket booths and other amenities is a large, round room with a domed ceiling. The boarding room and main terminal is a long hall with a high vaulted ceiling that stretches the length of the building. The sides of the boarding room are lined with more than 20 gates and on a busy day (Friday or holidays) there is little room to move. The service area houses the ticket booths, dining area, bathrooms, payphones, and passenger entrance/exit as well as a few more passenger gates.

Arriving buses circle the service area and boarding room and dock in assigned bays. Passengers load at assigned gates (look for the number scrawled on the unnecessary ticket envelope that is really nothing more than an advertisement and you darn well better have your ticket out of the envelope before you try to board the bus or you'll be sent to the back of the line and told, again, to remove your ticket from the envelope which you should have done in the first place but then really, why did the bus company give you an envelope in the first place?) and should be in line at least 15 minutes prior to the scheduled departure time. Of course, on busy schedules (weekends and holidays) passengers should get in line even earlier to guarantee a seat. Some bus lines out of Boston do offer a newer service called Priority Seating but save yourself the money and just get to the terminal a little earlier on busy days.

Passengers arriving at Boston's South Station Bus Terminal deboard buses and collect checked luggage at the side of the coach before entering the nearest door into the main terminal. Depending on which bay the bus used passengers will either bear right or left to find the exit and service area. Just look for the digital clock and sign that says EXIT and walk that way. There you'll find the main service area. To get to the street level ride the escalator or walk down the stairs (use the elevator if you have large luggage, otherwise the nice security guards will look at you sternly) to the mezzanine level. From the mezzanine look for another set of stairs down on your left (only experienced users should take the stairs on the right) or hop on the elevator straight ahead (there is no down escalator from the mezzanine). Now you're at the street level and if you came out through the main exit you'll see a line of taxis and illegally parked cars double-parked and blocking every inch of crosswalk and sidewalk within sight. Three blocks straight ahead you'll see the famed Chinatown Archway which marks the entrance to Chinatown (you probably guessed that part). Look left and you'll see a lot of highway ramps, look right and you'll see Boston's Financial District and the South Station Train Terminal. Unless you need a taxi take a right, everything you want is over there (except Chinatown which is still straight ahead).

AROUND THE STATION

South Station Bus Terminal sits in its own corner of the world. The area used to be known as the Leather District but now the best description of the neighborhood might be “near Chinatown, on Fort Point Channel by the Financial District in downtown.” That being said, expect to find great transportation options and easy access to downtown and other tourist-friendly areas all within an easy walk of the terminal. Except for a handful of mediocre chain restaurants in the train and bus stations, there's not a lot of food in the immediate vicinity so be prepared to walk to Chinatown (lots of cheap eats) or Quincy Market if you want good food sooner rather than later.

There's not a lot of visible crime on the premises or in the surrounding blocks and the bums laying on the benches might ask for money but are otherwise harmless. There has been a rise in crime in the area known as Downtown Crossing and on the Boston Common, just a few blocks from the bus terminal, with an occasional shooting and some visible drug use. As always, travel with a friend, avoid groups of loud, obnoxious, unruly kids and scumbags and you should be fine. Your biggest concern on a regular day around the terminal might be the scam artist who just needs “a few bucks to get home/food/medicine” because he lost his “wallet/job/phone/mind” and his “wife/sister/mother/kid/neighbor is sick/injured/missing” so he's “desperate/begging” for a bit of change to buy a ticket blah blah. First rule of city living: everyone wants your money and everyone has a story. Just keep walking and you'll be fine.

LAYOVER NOTES

Travelers heading to or from Maine, New Hampshire, and Canada can expect a layover in Boston with a bus change. If you have an hour or less, stay inside the terminal, use the facilities, get lunch, or stretch your legs. You can step outside for a breath of fresh air or a lung full of cigarette smoke, but getting there will take a few minutes so don't dally or you might miss your connection. If you have a few hours between buses you should certainly trek outside and look for Chinatown, Downtown or the North End (see Must See and Do below). If nothing else, slip next door to South Station Train Terminal and look around. There's more seating and food than at the bus terminal and a nice, albeit small, bookstore and magazine stand will occupy your time.

FAST FACTS

SOUTH STATION BUS TERMINAL
700 Atlantic Avenue Boston, MA
HOURS Daily 24 hours
MAIN PHONE NUMBER 617 526 1801
BAGGAGE 617 526 1813
GREYHOUND PACKAGE EXPRESS 617 526 1842
GREYHOUND CUSTOMER SERVICE 617 526 1808
LOCKERS NO
PAYPHONES YES
ATM YES
VENDING MACHINES NO
FOOD YES (take-out only)
BATHROOM YES
GATES 29
WATER FOUNTAIN YES
TAXIS YES (at street level)
TRANSIT YES (see Getting Around)
AIRPORT CONNECTIONS YES (see Coming and Going)
TRAIN CONNECTION YES (see Coming and Going)
Ticketed passengers only between midnight and 5:00AM

BUS LINES SERVING BOSTON

TELEPHONE WEBSITE SERVING
Boltbus - boltbus.com New York City
Bonanza see Peter Pan bonanzabus.com MA, CT & RI
Boston Express 800 639 8080 bostonexpressbus.com New Hampshire
C&J Trailways 800 258 7111 ridecj.com MA and NH
Concord Coach 800 639 3317 concordcoachlines.com NH and ME
DATTCO 800 229 4879 dattco.com CT, MA, NY
Fung Wah 212 925 8889 fungwahbus.com New York City
Greyhound 800 231 2222 greyhound.com National
Lucky Star 888 881 0887 luckystarbus.com New York City
Megabus 877 462 6342 megabus.com New York City
Peter Pan 800 343 9999 peterpanbus.com New England
P&B 508 746 0378 p-b.com Cape Cod
Greyhound, Peter Pan, and Bonanza codeshare in the New England region and share ticket booths and gates at Boston's South Station Bus Terminal and other cities.

SEE ALSO

Boston has several small, unnecessary stops known in the industry as Limited stops. We've only ever once seen any passenger ever board at Copley Square yet once or twice per day, depending on the season, Peter Pan buses travel through the city's harried, rush hour gridlock en route to Hartford and Springfield to pick up the occasional passenger at these Limited stops. We appreciate the thought but these Limited stops are a drag.

Boston Copley Square
Boston Logan Airport
Boston Park Square at St James
Boston Park Square
Boston State House

GET TO KNOW BOSTON

Boston is a great American city, rich with history, tradition, sports, education, food, and fun. It's a perfect destination for bus travelers and is easily accessible from any point in the country with frequent service from New York City. Tourists flock to the city year-round though the best time to visit is May to October when the weather is probably fine and you'll find an endless list of cheap, easy fun.

At more than 43 square miles and 600,000 people in the city proper, Boston is not a small town but it is compact and easy to get around. Many of the city's top tourist spots are within walking distance of South Station Bus Terminal so consider a day trip to Boston if you're anywhere near the area.

Must see neighborhoods include the North End, Back Bay and Beacon Hill. Visit all three and you'll find a great mix of food, shops, sights, and sounds; your mind and body will thank you.

The two traditional newspaper dailies are the Boston Globe and the Boston Herald though the Boston Metro (now partly owned by the Boston Globe) offers a low-quality daily rag as well. For a list of what to do in town pick up the Boston Phoenix or Stuff, free weekly journals aimed at hip locals and fun-loving tourists.

The weather varies from nasty hurricane winds blowing freezing ice and snow in the winter to dripping, sweaty nasty hot lazy dog days of July and August. As Mark Twain said, if you don't like the weather, wait 15 minutes it will change. So dress in layers, expect the worst, hope for the best and you'll be fine.

BRIEF HISTORY

Before the 17th century Boston was a peninsula connected to the mainland by a thin isthmus. The peninsula, known as Shawmut, was occasionally settled by indigenous groups and later by the first European settler, William Blackstone. By 1630 the Massachusetts Bay colonists, who had originally settled across the river in Charlestown, purchased land from Blackstone and renamed the peninsula Boston. For the next century and a half Boston prospered and grew into the richest town in what we now call the United States. During the 18th century many of the country's prominent revolutionaries lived and worked in Boston. Benjamin Franklin, Paul Revere, and Sam Adams were long-time residents and vocal anti-British activists. The American Revolution began in Boston when the British army launched its raids on Lexington and Concord (farm towns a few miles west of the city) from the banks of the Boston Common.

Following the American Revolution Boston and its surrounding towns developed a rich manufacturing and shipping economy becoming a world leader in textiles, rum, and machinery. In the mid-19th century the town drew thousands of Irish immigrants during that country's disastrous Potato Famine. From that period on the city became famous and infamous for its thick Irish ancestry. Meanwhile the city and the state expanded Boston's area by filling in wetlands and annexing neighboring towns (Hyde Park, Brighton, Jamaica Plain, Dorchester, and Roxbury among them).

The 20th century saw continued prosperity throughout the Boston area until the Post-War period when racial strife tore at the city's identity. From 1950 to the 1990s the city's population dwindled from more than 900,000 to about 500,000 as white and European residents fled to the suburbs in a period known as White Flight.

The 21st century is showing a resurgence in the city's population and wealth as young, educated workers move back into the city to take advantage of its ethnic diversity, night life, and job opportunities. Tourism is as strong as ever and the recently completed Boston Convention Center and Exhibit Hall in the burgeoning Waterfront district attracts tens of thousands of conventioneers yearly. Recent national titles in baseball (Red Sox 2004, 2007), football (Patriots 2002, 2004, 2005), and basketball (Celtics 2008) have created a sports euphoria few other cities have ever seen.

ORIENTATION

There's nothing like stepping off a bus into a city you've never seen before. The smells, sights and sounds can excite and frighten even the most intrepid traveler. To make the most of your time in any city, be it a day or a month, spend a few minutes learning the neighborhoods before you go. This will help you plan your trip and orient you to your surroundings. This section briefly describes the most popular and tourist-friendly neighborhoods in the city starting with the neighborhoods nearest the bus station and fanning out from there.

Chinatown

Small and compact, Chinatown can assault your senses with blaring car horns, intense aromatic flavors, and block after block of shops and restaurants. Chinatown is the nearest real neighborhood to South Station Bus Terminal and it's worth a visit even on a short layover. Standing in front of the main entrance to South Station Bus Terminal you can see the famed Chinatown Gateway Arch about three blocks away, straight down Beech Street. Mind the traffic and cross Atlantic Avenue carefully, walk straight on Beech Street until you're standing under the arch. Look right, that road with the interesting “art” is the southern end of the Rose Kennedy Greenway. Keep that in mind for later. Continue straight up Beech Street and you're passing through the center of Chinatown. Explore. Eat. Stare at people.

The Financial District

You'll find Downtown and the Financial District just a few blocks west and north of the bus station. See all those tall buildings around the bus station? That's the Financial District. There you'll find some beautiful architecture from the post-fire period (re: 1872 and after), a handful of expensive restaurants and an occasional decent pub. Your best bet for a lazy afternoon is to grab a sandwich from J. Pace on Devonshire Street (in the One Federal Building) and head over to Post Office Square. On a good weather day the Square and its small but attractive and well-maintained park are home to hundreds of happy office workers taking a much-deserved break from the toils of the daily grind. You're on vacation so feel free to join them and remind yourself that you're not working today. If you're not hungry skip lunch but enjoy the park anyway. Then lose yourself in the winding streets of one of Boston's oldest neighborhoods. Don't worry, you're never more than a few blocks from Downtown, the Waterfront, the North End, or Beacon Hill.

Downtown

From South Station Bus Terminal take a right along Atlantic Avenue and a left on Summer Street. Follow Summer Street a few blocks as it winds around the Financial District and in a few minutes you'll find yourself in the heart of the city. But Downtown Boston is less a neighborhood than a confluence of other neighborhoods: Beacon Hill, Chinatown, the West End, the Waterfront, and the North End. In the 1970s the city tried to reinvent the area along Washington, Summer, and Winter Streets as Downtown Crossing. The name stuck but the area's identity is vague and unattractive. Long known for its eclectic mix of local shops and department stores the area is in the middle of an extended economic slump, especially since the demise of Filene's and Filene's Basement. Now just a hole in the ground with a few stretches of facade Filene's was sold to Macy*s a few years ago and the store was shuttered soon after. Filene's Basement, a small chain originally owned by but now independent of Filene's, plans on reopening its flagship store in Downtown Crossing as soon as the site is ready but that won't be any time soon. Until then, shops continue to open and close along Washington Street and the congruent Ladder District but it's a dreary sight, especially to anyone who remembers the “better days”.

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The Waterfront

Not yet a neighborhood, the Waterfront is an increasingly popular destination for tourists. The view is great and the location is central to many of the city's best tourist spots. Few people live here though that's changing since the Big Dig removed the obnoxious highway that long separated the city from the water. Several high-rise condos have sprouted along the length of the Waterfront but for now you'll see more hotels and office buildings than homes. But the city has put a lot of time, money, and effort into revitalizing the area. Look for a continuous walkway along the banks of Boston Harbor as well as the attractive Rose Kennedy Greenway. Except for a few undeveloped or industrial zones you can walk along the entire length of the Boston's considerable waterfront. In reality, if you explore the Waterfront you'll probably spend most of your time walking between South Station and the North End, but along the way you'll be entertained at most every turn.

To get there from South Station Bus Terminal take a right on Atlantic Avenue. The Waterfront is visible on your right after you pass Summer Street.

North End

Don't call it Little Italy. Yes, there's a long tradition of Italian heritage here and most corners are home to Italian eateries or churches but no one calls the North End “Little Italy” except for the misinformed tourist. This is one of the densest and oldest neighborhoods in Boston. Formerly a stronghold for Irish and Jewish immigrants, the North End developed its Italian identity in the early 20th century. Generations of families were born, lived, and died here without ever crossing into Boston proper. If you can afford the rent and don't mind the crowds you too could spend the rest of your life in this small corner of the world without ever venturing farther than the corner market.

Expect dense crowds of tourists at any time of day, and any day of the year, especially along the Freedom Trail. Drivers don't obey basic traffic laws nor do pedestrians. You'll spend half your visit here walking in the middle of narrow alleys avoiding cars parked on sidewalks. The trick is to stick to one-way streets and walk facing traffic, you'll be fine. As you meander the curving alleys and bustling Hanover and Salem Streets look for Paul Revere's House, Old North Church, Copps Hill burying ground, and a hundred other less known landmarks. Visit Mike's Pastry, even if you don't buy anything it's fun to browse the mountains of cakes and cookies.

To get here from South Station Bus Terminal, take a right on Atlantic Avenue and follow the road to Hanover Street. It's about one mile and there is no easier access by transit so walking is your best option. Enjoy the Rose Kennedy Greenway en route or follow the Waterfront. Either way you'll find the North End.

Beacon Hill

One of the most picturesque neighborhoods in any American city, Boston's Beacon Hill is a tightly knit maze of tree-lined townhouses and mansions. Senator John Kerry lives here (Louisburg Square) as do thousands of other well-to-do folks. But it's not all lifestyles of the rich and famous. Suffolk University occupies several buildings on the hill and so many of the old townhouses now provide off-campus housing to college students. Go figure. For a self-guided tour of Beacon Hill just walk through Boston Common and dive up the hill. For a quick albeit uphill stroll take Joy Street and take a left on Pinckney Street. You'll pass Louisburg Square and end up on Charles Street where you should spend a few hours window-shopping and eating.

If you have more time and energy consider a tour of Boston's Black Heritage Trail. Stop by the National Park Service Visitor's Center on State Street and ask for more information. The tour winds up and down Beacon Hill and along the way you'll discover Boston's historic role in the abolition movement.

If you only have a few minutes and want to experience classic Beacon Hill, visit Acorn Street. This short, steep road is paved in original cobblestones and might be the most photographed street in the world. From Boston Common cross Beacon Street and walk up Charles Street. Take a right on Chestnut and a left on Willow Street. Acorn Street is on your left.

Back Bay

Built in the 19th century to fill in festering, dirty marshland, Back Bay is a handful or tree-lined streets and avenues. Some of these brownstones sell for $25 million and the rents are through the roof. But you can tour the neighborhood in ripped jeans and flip-flops, no one will care.

Back Bay is a great neighborhood to spend a day. Begin at the Public Garden at Arlington Street and stroll along the Commonwealth Avenue Mall. Relax on the benches and study the monuments and statues. At Massachusetts Avenue take a left and then another left on Newbury Street. Visit the high-end shops, Newbury Comics, and the cafes. Enjoy the crowds and the architecture. At Dartmouth Street take a right and walk one block to Boylston Street. Cross the street and explore the Boston Public Library or laze on the grass at Copley Square under the spires of Trinity Church and the shadow of the John Hancock Tower.

South End

Until the 1990s the South End was a run down mess, and what a shame it was. The beautiful rows of brownstone townhouses fell into disrepair following the White Flight of the 1950s, 60s and 70s and some became home to drug gangs and prostitutes. Today, most blocks of the South End have been renovated and the buildings now command steep rents but you can still find occasional pockets of dodgy looking buildings especially along Columbus Avenue. You might not need to tour the South End for its history (though there is plenty here) but you should come for the nightlife. Look for the bars and cafes that line Tremont Street, and consider a discount ticket to the Boston Ballet or the Boston Center for the Arts.

Fenway and Kenmore

When you hear the name Fenway you'll probably think of Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox. But the area has a lot more to offer than “just” the Sox. Here you'll Boston University with its 20,000 students which means night clubs (on Lansdowne Street), lots of food, especially on Commonwealth Avenue, and a handful of bookstores and used record stores. But be forewarned, the area is changing. Developers, including the owners of the Red Sox, want to build a few hi-rise complexes and hotels in Kenmore Square and the rents are already driving out small, mom and pop restaurants. And college students have higher living standards now than they did a few years ago so classic greasy spoons and cheap diners are disappearing while mid-price cafes and classier dinner bars replace them. Some of the best deals in town used to be found in Kenmore Square and Fenway but no more.

If you can't bear to pay $7.00 for a pint at the Eastern Standard and you're not here for a game, you can still have a good time in Fenway. Look for the Back Bay Fens (locals call it the Fens). Just follow Brookline Avenue to Yawkey Way, past Fenway Park, and you'll land in the middle of a beautiful, landscaped park, part of Boston's famed Emerald Necklace. Spend a few hours reading a book under a massive shade tree, read the war memorials and walk through the Victory Garden where locals grow fruits, vegetables, and herbs in a public garden.

In August you're in for a treat. Fenway Park now hosts a concert every year while the team is away and you don't have to buy a ticket to enjoy the show. Thousands of fans of the Police, Jimmy Buffett, the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen, and the Dave Matthews Band have enjoyed the show free, just by standing outside of the park and listening to the music as it roars across Fenway and Kenmore from stadium amplifiers.

Also in August, look for a double header featuring the Boston Red Sox' Double-A and Single-A farm teams playing at Fenway Park. The tickets are cheap and you get to spend a day in the park watching potentially great players at work. Or take a tour of Fenway Park. The tours aren't free (currently $8) but you'll never get a closer look at the field. Finally, if you're a fan of the game or just want a great souvenir, head to Lansdowne Street on any game day. Hang out for the hour before the game until the ninth inning and keep your eyes up and open. During batting practice and the game you'll have a chance at catching a home run ball. Just listen for the roar of the crowd.

Cambridge

Across the river from, Cambridge deserves a visit for sat least a few hours, if not a few days. The tiny, densely populated city is home to hundreds of tasty and trendy restaurants, several wonderful bookstores, and a couple important universities. In the east end of Cambridge you'll find MIT, Kendall Square and a growing center for biotechnology firms. But walk a few blocks in any direction and you'll find rows of triple-decker housing and corner markets. Mid-Cambridge, also called Central Square is the civic center of the city with the city hall and other public buildings. Here you'll find even more good restaurants (Ethiopian, Indian, Arabic) and a few blocks away (head north on Inman Street) you'll find Inman Square, one of the hippest and most popular neighborhoods in the area. A mile west of Central Square you'll find Harvard Square. Not the bohemian center it was even ten years ago Harvard Square still offers plenty to do. Browse the shelves at Shoenhof's foreign-language bookstore on Mt. Auburn Street or relax in John F. Kennedy Park at the corner of JFK Street and Memorial Drive on the Charles River. Continue north on Massachusetts Avenue (the main road across Cambridge) and you'll pass myriad boutique shops and tiny restaurants that cater to Harvard University students. Soon you'll be in Porter Square. Keep walking and take a right on Day Street. In a minute you'll be in Davis Square where rents are forcing out many of the best shops and restaurants, but the nightlife deserves a mention. Our favorite spot is the small, mangy pub called Sligo but most folks prefer the larger, trendier Burren and the Joshua Tree.

To get to Cambridge take the Red Line to Kendall, Central, Harvard, Porter, or Davis Square. Yes, Davis Square is in Somerville, but just barely.

GETTING AROUND

Boston was made for the bus traveler, or at least that's what you might think when you visit the city. Few other American cities are more accessible by foot or transit than Boston so wear some comfortable shoes and peek at the MBTA's subway map. Be prepared to walk and learn to love the MBTA.

WALKING

For nine months out of the year (March to November) your best bet in and around the city is to walk everywhere you go. The typical tourist areas are all well within walking distance especially if you're somewhat fit and have somewhere to drop your bags. Beware: drivers in the city have no sympathy for pedestrians and the feeling is mutual. Drivers frequently run lights, block crosswalks and bus stops and park on sidewalks. (MBTA drivers are the worst.) Pedestrians are nothing but speed bumps to most drivers so bite your tongue and keep your eyes open and you'll be fine. Fight the urge to beat up every driver who tries to run you over - there are only 24 hours in a day, don't spend them all fighting with drivers who would rather see you dead. Stay on the sidewalks, obey the walk signals and look for a crosswalk whenever possible. Oh, and see the throngs of pedestrians jaywalking all over downtown and Back Bay? Don't follow them. Wait for the light, you'll live longer.

The other three months of the year (December, January, and February) are a toss up. The weather can fluctuate rapidly. A foot of snow one day can melt the next and a winter thaw can turn to a deep freeze in minutes. Check the weather forecast before heading out.

TRANSIT

The MBTA (Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority) is the largest provider of transit services in the Boston area. Love it or hate it, locals spend a log of time on “the T”. To get where you're going look for the black, bold, capital T in a circle that marks most subway stops and buses. At South Station the nearest transit station is located at the main South Station building next door to the bus terminal. Catch the Silver Line (bus rapid transit) to the airport, waterfront, or South Boston on the mezzanine level below South Station and the Red Line (subway) on the lower level. Commuter rail service is at street level at South Station and there are a few express and local buses (routes 6, 7, 11, 448, 449, 459) that board on Summer Street next to South Station. Take a right out of the bus terminal and walk straight to Summer Street, look to the right and find your bus.

In 2007 the MBTA changed its fare collection from the classic and simple token system to a frustrating and expensive electronic fare card system. The agency spent more than 200 million dollars to design, build, and install the system and immediately raised its rates in part just to pay for the system. In theory the fare cards and vending machines are designed to reduce gate jumping (fare evasion), increase efficiency, and improve customer service by freeing fare collectors from their booths and retraining them as station agents. In reality, passengers frequently follow other passengers through the sliding gates, the vending machines break at any one station are as likely to malfunction as work, and the station agents abuse their new found freedom by taking eight-hour lunch shifts. So much for technology.

To ride the subway purchase paper Charlie Tickets at the vending machine and pay full price per trip. But when you can find a working machine and a station agent ask for a plastic Charlie Card. They're free and by adding value to them instead of the paper ticket you get a small but pleasant discount per trip. Save the card and refill it during your visit. It also makes a handy souvenir so don't lose it. You can also use your Charlie Card to ride a bus but make sure you put money on it before you board because although you can add value to your card on the bus this involves asking the driver to get involved and most drivers are surly. Be annoyed because there are no vending machines at bus stops so load your Charlie Card at a subway station before looking for a bus. If you want to ride the bus but don't have a Charlie Card don't worry, you can pay cash on board but you won't get the discount and you must have correct change - drivers do not make change and they will yell at you for asking.

If you're in town for a few days seriously consider the MBTA's “7-Day pass” from any vending machine (no Charlie Card required). The pass costs $15.00 and is good for travel on all subways, buses, and bus rapid transit lines. You can easily get your money's worth by just taking a few trips each day. If you're only in town for a day or so you can also consider the “1-Day” pass but at $9.00 it might not be a good value unless you know you'll take at least three roundtrips in the next 24 hours.

The 7-Day pass is misnamed. It's really a 168-Hour pass because it's not good for seven calendar days, it's good for 168 hours after you buy it. The same is true of the One-Day pass; it's really a 24-Hour pass. If you plan carefully you can squeeze a lot of extra use out of either pass. For example, buy your One-Day pass in the afternoon on your first day and it will be good until the same time the next day. Unlike Cinderella's chariot, the 7-Day and 1-Day passes do not expire at midnight on the day or week you buy them.
WEBSITE mbta.com
PHONE 617 222 3200
TTY 617 222 5146
CUSTOMER SERVICE HOURS Monday to Friday: 6:30AM - 8:00PM
Saturday and Sunday: 7:30AM - 6:00PM
SERVICES subway, bus, bus rapid transit, commuter rail, water taxi

Subway

Boston opened the first subway in the United States in 1897 and passengers might wonder if the MBTA ever upgraded its equipment since then. The answer is yes but you can't always tell. The Green Line is the oldest of the subway lines though it's technically a streetcar. Except for the stretch between North Station and Kenmore Square the Green Line runs above ground, either at-grade (usually in the median strip of the road) or on an elevated platform. The Green Line has four spurs (the B, C, D, and E) that end in far reaching corners of the city and suburbs. If you're riding anywhere between Copley Square and Government Center you can take any of the spurs but outside of this area check with other passengers before you board.

The Red Line stretches from west Cambridge (at Alewife) to Mattapan on the Ashmont spur and Braintree on the, well, Braintree spur. As a tourist you'll probably never ride farther north or west than Davis Square (Somerville). Heading south you'll probably never go farther than JFK/UMass (to visit the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum). Note that Quincy Market is not in Quincy.

The Orange Line serves Boston's northern suburbs and Forest Hills to the south. Don't bother going farther north than the Community College stop where you can visit Bunker Hill Monument and Charlestown but do ride all the way south to Forest Hills. There you'll find the beautiful Arnold Arboretum. Also look for Centre Street in Jamaica Plain, a dense and lively neighborhood lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. Take the Orange Line to Green Street and walk a few blocks northwest. Check the map at the subway station to find your way or ask the station agent for directions. The neighborhood between the station and Centre Street is rather blah but keep walking till you find the heart of Jamaica Plain.

The Blue Line just received a much needed face-lift. All of the station platforms were extended to fit six-car trains (instead of four) and the MBTA has already taken delivery of several new cars. Expect better, more comfortable service to Boston Logan Airport and the Aquarium. So named because it was the first subway line in the world to travel under water, the Blue Line connects Downtown Boston to its working class northern neighbor Revere.

FULL FARE CHARLIE CARD SERVES
RED LINE $2.00 $1.70 Boston, Cambridge, Quincy, Braintree
GREEN LINE $2.00 $1.70 Boston, Cambridge, Brookline, Newton
BLUE LINE $2.00 $1.70 Boston, Revere
ORANGE LINE $2.00 $1.70 Boston, Somerville, Medford
Transit fans delight in Boston's historic rail lines. For a trip down memory lane head to Boylston Street on the Green Line and on the INBOUND platform view two 1950s era streetcars. But for a real adventure, take the Red Line to Ashmont, and transfer to the Mattapan extension. This spur still uses 1950s streetcars to travel the few stops from Ashmont to Mattapan. The view is OK and there's nothing to do at Ashmont or Mattapan, but go for the ride. Just avoid the throngs of loud, obnoxious thugs at Ashmont.

Bus Rapid Transit

The Silver Line is Boston's version of bus rapid transit (BRT) that relies on intelligent transportation systems (ITS) to speed across the city. In practice, the Silver Line is just a shiny bus. For much of the route the MBTA wasn't able to implement standard ITS methods including dedicated lane use. In the end, the buses spend much of their time fighting traffic and bypassing illegally parked cars. But the Silver Line does use large-capacity articulated buses that control traffic signals so although it's an imperfect system it's better than a standard bus.

There are four Silver Line routes across Boston the first of which opened in 2002 and runs from Dudley Square in Roxbury to Boylston Street in Downtown. The other three lines begin at South Station and operate to the airport (SL1), Boston Marine Industrial Park (SL2), and City Point in South Boston (SL3). The Dudley Square line is supposed to eventually connect to and through South Station via a controversial billion-dollar tunnel that has yet to be built. For now the fare on the Dudley Square Silver Line route is $1.50 (is it a bus?) and the fare on the other three lines is $2.00 (it's a subway?). If the tunnel is ever built and the lines connected the Silver Line will connect Roxbury to the city's airport and waterfront offering better job access to one of the city's poorer neighborhoods. For now, unless you're going to or from the airport you'll probably never ride the Silver Line. That being said, transit buffs should explore the Silver Line from end to end to see some beautiful new stations (Courthouse, World Trade Center). Just make sure you're on the right bus, Dudley Square is out of the way for the average tourist.

BUS RAPID TRANSIT FULL FARE CHARLIE CARD SERVES
SILVER LINE $1.50 $1.25 Dudley Square, Roxbury, South End
SILVER LINE 1 $2.00 $1.70 airport, waterfront
SILVER LINE 2 $2.00 $1.70 Boston Marine Industrial Park, cruise terminal
SILVER LINE 3 $2.00 $1.70 City Point, South Boston
For a great adventure ride SL3 to City Point and walk the few blocks to Castle Island. Enjoy the waterfront and get lunch at Sullivan's, a South Boston institution. For a great view of the city walk from City Point to Telegraph Hill, one of the highest points in Boston and the site of a major victory at the start of the American Revolution.

Local Bus

Boston has one of the most eclectic bus fleets in the country. The agency recently began converting its fleet to compressed natural gas (CNG) and dual-powered diesel/electric low-floor buses. But to satisfy local noise and pollution ordinances many of the bus lines across Cambridge and Belmont still use electric buses operated by a pantograph and overhead power line system. The bus system is wide and useful but lines rarely go any nearer to tourist friendly spots than the subway system does.

If you do want a bus look for stops marked with a tall metal sign emblazoned with a bus icon and the MBTA's T symbol. Many of the stops are now marked with the route numbers that stop there and some even have schedules posted at the stop. Have your cash or Charlie Card ready and board through the front door (let other passengers exit before you climb up). Buses rarely pull up to the curb and you can easily expect passenger cars to illegally park or double park at the stop. It can help to flag down the driver when you see your bus coming. Try to be at the stop a few minutes early but expect the bus to be late, especially on a rainy day or during rush hour.

Seats on a bus are small and uncomfortable but that doesn't matter because on many buses you'll have to stand. Leave the front seats available for elderly and handicapped passengers. When you're near your stop pull the chord or press the yellow strip to signal the driver. It helps if you signal the driver a moment after the stop just before your stop.

ROUTE FULL FARE CHARLIE CARD SERVES
1 $1.50 $1.25 Boston to Cambridge along Massachusetts Avenue
This bus chart lists only major routes that a tourist is likely to take. Please visit the MBTA's website for a complete list.

Commuter Rail

The nearest commuter rail station is located at street level at South Station. The trains from South Station generally serve suburbs that you'll never visit so unless you're visiting friends on the South Shore you probably won't take a commuter rail train from South Station. Note that the train to Plymouth stops about two miles short of Plymouth Rock so plan carefully if you want to take a train down.

North Station is an entirely different story though. From here you can catch a train to Salem (more touristy than spooky) or Rockport, Newburyport, Manchester-by-the-Sea, or Gloucester. These North Shore coastal towns are more accessible and tourist-friendly than their South Shore counterparts. Several towns offer shuttle bus service from the commuter train lots to their beachfronts so ask around and plan ahead. A trip to the North Shore by commuter rail is worth some thought especially in the summer when the cool, salty ocean breeze mixes with the flavors and sounds of family fun.

The trains are generally older but comfortable, many have on-board toilets and trains from South Station frequently use double decker viewliner cars. (Trains leaving from North Station travel under an overpass which precludes double decker cars. Oh, well.)

Commuter rail fares are based on the number of zones through which one travels, inclusive. Expect your fare to range from $3 - $9 each way per person and buy your tickets before you get on board to avoid a surcharge (up to $2.00). Plan carefully around rush hour - hundreds of passengers travel by standing room only every day. Avoid the hassle, avoid rush hour trains inbound in the morning or outbound in the evening.

MBTA trains serving the North Shore (Salem, etc.) and some points west leave from North Station. There is no easy way to make a connection, see below (Coming and Going) for more information or ask a nice clerk at South Station for details on where to find your commuter train.

Ferry

You'll probably never need to ride an MBTA ferry but they're great fun and affordable. We particular enjoy the roundtrip between Long Wharf and Quincy, it's about 45 minutes each way and offers a great view of Boston by sea. Tip: the MBTA offers a special sightseer's price for the ferry. Just tell the clerk you're just going for a ride; the fare is only $6.00 roundtrip if you don't get off in Quincy. For your reference here are the MBTA ferry routes and fares:

FARE SERVES
F1 $6.00 Hewitt's Cove, Hingham - Rowes Wharf
F2 $6.00 Quincy Fore River Shipyard - Long Wharf
F2H $12.00 Hull - Boston
F2H $12.00 Hull - Logan Airport
F4 $1.70 Long Wharf - Charlestown Navy Yard
If you just want to spend more time on the Harbor you should just take an inter island boat tour. It's only $14.00 and provides the best, most affordable harbor tour.

DRIVING

Seriously? You're taking a bus to Boston and you're thinking of driving somewhere, anywhere, when you get there? Don't drive. Ever. Seriously, if you're going to take a bus to Boston, why would you ever consider driving? That being said, if you're in town for awhile and you really to need get somewhere and you know where it is and you think you can find parking when you get there and transit, walking, taxis, and sled dogs are simply not an option then consider renting a car. ZipCar and similar services probably won't be of any use (membership fees and registration make it awkward for short visits). If you NEED to rent a car look for an in-town car rental agency such as National or Thrifty. Enterprise offers deep discounts on weekend rates but they practice hard upsells for insurance and other upgrades. If you're desperate for an inexpensive weekend rate you can bite your tongue and rent from them. Of course, if you plan on driving in the Boston area a hard upsell will be the least of your problems.

WHERE TO STAY

Boston has a few drawbacks for travelers of which the most glaring might be the lack of affordable sleeping arrangements (the other being the dreaded winter weather). With a little planning you'll be alright and with a little creativity you might have a unique (read: awesome) experience.

Don't plan on sleeping at the bus or train terminals at South Station. Both are closed between midnight and 5:00AM except to passengers with tickets on late night service. If you're desperate for a place to stay you might consider buying a cheap refundable fare ticket for an early morning bus just to take advantage of the station for a few hours sleep. Then get a refund for your unused ticket in the morning. But again, ask for the refundable fare and be prepared to pay a 15% refund fee. Otherwise, take the Silver Line to the Airport and sleep in a quiet corner of a terminal. You'll have access to clean bathrooms, payphones, and coffee but most other services are beyond the security gates. It might be worth the round trip fare for a few hours sleep in a safe place.

HOTELS

If you're here for a night or two you can consider a hotel if, and only if, you check on-line booking agents like Priceline or Hotwire. Rack rate hotel rooms in Boston rival New York and San Francisco, ie: $200 and up, way up, on any given night. With a little planning you might find a good deal on-line so plan ahead. If you walk into a hotel and ask the clerk for the best deal possible you'll laugh or cry but it's worth a try in a pinch, just prepare for the worst.

On Priceline and Hotwire only select downtown neighborhoods like Back Bay, Financial District, and Government Center in your search. We recently stayed at the convenient and well-appointed Hyatt (Avenue de Lafayette) for $89 a night after a little creative bidding on Priceline. So it's worth a try. Cambridge has a few good options too but avoid Chelsea, Revere, Everett and Quincy. No matter how close they seem they're not.

When searching on-line for Boston hotels closely watch the street address listed. Many hotel operators list their properties with such deceptive titles as “Hotel Name - Boston”. Yet, really the hotel is in some unforgiving suburb that even if you could reach you'd spend so much time traveling back and forth you'd have no time to see the city. So watch the street address and run a search on Google Maps. Then call the hotel and ask how far they are from the nearest SUBWAY stop (avoid using the generic phrase “T stop”, this includes buses and commuter rail trains).

HOSTELS

Begin your search on-line with Hostels.com and consider a membership with any of the hostel organizations. Sometimes membership is required to stay in a hostel, and some hostels are age-restricted so call ahead or look on-line.

HI - Boston

12 Hemenway Street
Boston, MA 02115
Telephone: (617) 536-9455
Fax: (617) 424-6558

Shared Dorms: $28.00 and up
Private Room: $80.00 and up

Add $3.00 per person per night for non-members.

One of the most popular and centrally located hostels is the HI - Boston nestled between Back Bay and Fenway. The hostel boasts 80,000 visits a year and we believe them. Of course that means it can hard to get a room here, especially in the summer.

Directions:

The location is great but can be hard to find. Many people who live in the area don't even know where Hemenway Street is though it's just a few blocks from Fenway Park and Newbury Street (two of the most popular spots in the city). So if you're staying here write down the directions before you leave or bring a cell phone. To get there from South Station take the MBTA Red Line (entrance beneath the train station) INBOUND to Park Street. Hike upstairs to the Green Line and take the B, C, or D train WESTBOUND to Hynes Convention Center (4 stops). At Hynes walk upstairs and look for the Massachusetts Avenue exit. Walk up some more stairs and you're on Massachusetts Avenue (known locally as Mass Ave.) Take a left on Mass Ave and walk to the next light. You are now at the corner of Boylston Street. Take a right on Boylston Street and walk one block. You are now at the corner of Boylston, Ipswich and Hemenway Streets. Look across the street on your left - that's Hemenway Street. Watch the traffic, wait for the light and cross safely, you're almost there.

customize directions

H.I. - Fenway

575 Commonwealth Ave
Boston, MA 02215
Telephone: 617 267 8599
Fax: 617 424 6558

Shared Dorms: $36 and up
Private Room: $96 and up

Add $3.00 per person per night for non-members.

The reviews are mixed for HI - Fenway but the location is great. In the heart of Kenmore Square and convenient to Boston University, Lansdowne Street, Back Bay and Fenway Park HI - Fenway can be a good bet. The hostel is only open during the summer (June to August) so don't plan on dropping in without a reservation. You might see a closed sign.

Directions:

Right in the heart of Kenmore Square but it can be hard to find right away because of the traffic, construction, and confluence of criss crossing streets. Add the game day crowds, tourists, and college students and you're in for a sight. To get there from South Station take the MBTA Red Line (entrance beneath the train station) INBOUND to Park Street. Hike upstairs to the Green Line and take the B, C, or D train WESTBOUND to Kenmore Square (5 stops). Walk up to the mezzanine, pass through the fare gates and take an immediate right. Walk up stairs head toward Boston University's Barnes & Noble bookstore. Keep walking and stay right. You'll be on Commonwealth Avenue after the next intersection. Stay right and look for the hostel at 575 Commonwealth Avenue.

customize directions

YMCA

Hostel @ the Huntington Avenue YMCA
Huntington Avenue YMCA

316 Huntington Avenue
Boston, MA 02115
Telephone: 617 536 7800 & 617 927 8040

Shared Dorms: $25.00 and up
Private Room: $50.00 and up

You could do worse than the YMCA on Huntington Avenue. It's in town near public transportation and has laundry facilities and wi-fi. And unlike most hotels they have honest expectations about themselves: they advertise a “competent staff”. With that understated honesty you should know what to expect, not much, but at least you know. Reservations must be made on-line.

Directions:

To get there from South Station take the MBTA Red Line (entrance beneath the train station) INBOUND to Park Street. Hike upstairs to the Green Line and take the E train WESTBOUND to Northeastern University (6 stops and the first above ground). The stop is on Huntington Avenue and you're just a few feet from the YMCA. Walk to the crosswalk, cross the street to the left and then take a left at the sidewalk. The YMCA is just a few doors down (look for the YMCA flags out front).

From September to mid-May the YMCA at Huntington Avenue is men only.

COUCH SURFING

Perhaps the best way to travel the country (and the world), couch surfing is a post-modern concept that shows exactly how useful the Internet can be. Travelers register on-line and search the cities where they want to stay. Members offer the opportunity to host visitors (on their couch, floor, spare room) and describe themselves and their availability in an on-line profile. Then users contact each other, discuss plans, preferences and availability and decide whether to commit to an overnight or extended stay. Both parties have the option to refuse an offer without explanation and with no hurt feelings. The service advertises nearly one million users around the world so if you're ready for an adventure and can plan ahead, consider couch surfing. Interested travelers should visit couchsurfing.com and wikipedia.org to learn more.

CRAIGSLIST

By now everyone in the world uses Craigslist so you're probably familiar with the site. It's an on-line bulletin board where users freely post ads for everything from used toothbrushes for sale to erotic adventures. In between you can search for paid vacation and short-term rentals under housing. It means planning ahead and you might have to send a deposit to the advertiser. Most users are honest and intrepid travelers can find an affordable, safe, clean place to stay for a few nights. But if you're going to do this why not try couch surfing first? It's free so if you get to the house and don't like what you see you can leave. You also have the option to chat with your host before you ever leave home and couchsurfing.com offers some degree of reassurance with its referral and verification system. So search the Craigslist postings, but keep couch surfing in the back of your mind.

WHERE TO EAT

Boston's dining specialty is ethnic diversity. Yes, you can eat lobster and baked beans and say that you've had the traditional Boston dinner but why would you? You're in a city that prides itself on its rich mix of neighborhoods and multicultural experiences. Here we deliver a handful of great food options sorted by style and price. Go explore.

American (Downtown) $

Deli 1 One
85 Arch Street
Boston, MA 02110

Telephone: 617 292 7825

Hours: Monday through Friday 6:00Am to 3:30 and Saturday 7:00AM to 1:00PM

OK, the owners are Greek, we think, but the menu is classic American with affordable and tasty eggs, toast, and hash brown breakfasts for less than $5.00. Come for lunch and get a tuna sandwich on wheat and a cup of coffee. It's a straightforward, easygoing set up. Walk up to the counter, place an order, pay and grab your tray when your food is ready. Simple, tasty, cheap. Right in Downtown. To get there look for Macy*s on Summer Street. Arch Street is across the street from Macy*s.

Food Stalls (Downtown) $

Around Downtown you'll find several food stalls selling sausages, nuts, fried dough, lemon ice, hot dogs and other goodies. In good weather we've seen lines a block long by a popular burrito stand in Downtown Crossing. The food always smells good but be wary of poor hygiene and sanitation. Scary example: the boiled nut cart near the Old State House boils nuts in open pans over propane flames. They also have a cooler stocked with sodas, water, and juices chilled by blocks of bagged ice. Throughout the day people reach into the cooler and select a drink. Meanwhile the ice melts. By the end of the afternoon the nut seller needs more water to boil the nuts so every day he drains the melted ice from the cooler into his pans. The water is thick with grime from hundreds of dirty hands poking around the cooler all day. Sure, the heat from the propane kills some of the bacteria but what happens to the oil and dirt? Unsuspecting customers eat it. Ewww. (This is akin to lazy waiters who scoop ice into cups without using the scoop that's right there. It violates local health codes and is rather gross.) Are all food vendors so thoughtless? We know a fellow who used to run a few hot dog stands in Downtown Crossing and we grew to know and appreciate his sanitation so at least some of the vendors practice good sanitation. Alas, those hot dog carts are gone but we hope some of the vendors practice those same good habits. Be smart and keep your eyes open. If you don't trust the vendor, skip the stall.

Cajun-Tex-Mex (Harvard Square Cambridge) $$

Border Cafe
32 Church Street
Cambridge, MA

Telephone: 617 864 6100

Hours: open till 1:00AM Monday through Thursday, till 2:00AM Friday and Saturday and midnight on Sunday.

Avoid the lines, and we mean liiiiiiiines, and visit Border Cafe on a weekday afternoon, maybe around 4:00PM. Experience a flavorful meal drawn from the best of Gulf Coast boat food and Texas barbecue. We recommend the steak fajitas or Chicken Guadalajara with a side of jambalaya. Entrees range from $7 to $15 with most in the $10 range. The sodas are huge and come with free refills and the beer and margaritas come highly recommended. If you only get one sit down meal in Boston, consider a trip to Border Cafe in Harvard Square. Your belly will thank you. To get there take the Red Line to Harvard Square and look for the Church Street exit.

Polish (Dorchester) $$

Café Polonia
611 Dorchester Avenue
Boston, MA 02127

Telephone: 617 269 0110

This tiny restaurant in Boston's Dorchester neighborhood seats about 20 people and at lunchtime it fills quickly. The menu is short but what a choice selection it is. Fill your senses with flavorful kielbasa, pierogis, and cabbage. Entrees range from $10 to $14 and are worth every last cent. To get there take the Red Line to Andrew Square. Take the escalator to street level and look for Dorchester Avenue across the intimidating six-way intersection. Café Polonia is on the right hand side just a few doors down. It might seem out of the way but it's only a few minutes from South Station and it's worth the hike.

Malaysian (Chinatown) $$$

Penang Boston
685 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02111

Telephone: 617 451 6372

Hours: Sunday through Thursday 11:30AM - 11:30PM and Friday to Saturday till midnight

Certainly on the high end of bus traveler's cuisine, Penang features intense flavors and aromas with incredibly spicy dishes. The decoration is attractive and it's centrally located on Washington Street in Chinatown. If you can't afford a full dinner here, entrees cost up to $25, at least grab some appetizers for lunch.

Chinese (Chinatown) $$

Vinh Sun BBQ
58 Beach Street
Boston, MA 02111

Telephone: 617 338 1368

Hours: 8:00AM till 2:00AM (seriously)

Chinatown is filled with affordable restaurants but the quality varies greatly and you can never tell if the place you loved last time will be as good next time. A consistent favorite of ours is Vinh Sun on Beech Street under the shadow of the Chinatown Gateway Arch. The food rangers from simple rice and vegetable dishes to exotic jellyfish and pig tongue plates. Don't be put off by the roasted animals hanging in the window display, that's a traditional selling point in Chinatown and at least you know where your food is coming from. Entrees range from $5 up and you can enjoy a full meal here for under $10. To get there from South Station simply head out of the main entrance at the bus terminal and look straight ahead for the Chinatown Gateway Arch. Vinh Sun is just after the arch on your right.

Pizza (North End) $$

Regina Pizzeria
11 1/2 Thacher Street
Boston, MA

Telephone: 617 227 0765

You want pizza. You want pizza and you have a thousand options but there's only one pizzeria that you must visit: Pizzeria Regina. Don't waste your money on the mall franchises of Pizzeria Regina at South Station, Quincy Market or the Prudential Center. Their slices are alright but the original, authentic experience is right here in the North End. This is the original location, opened in 1926 and still using the wonderful brick ovens that lock in flavor. If you're by yourself order a small pizza ($10) and you'll eat like a king. If you're with friends everyone in the group should order his or her own small pizza and share. Oh, the fun! Be prepared to eat well but don't look for anything but pizza, this isn't Domino's. On weekends expect lines around the block and don't try to enter if ANYONE is waiting outside. The waitresses come out every few minutes and assign tables as they become available. It might sound rude but it works.

To get there, well, you have to get to the North End. Follow Cross Street to Endicott Street to Thatcher Street. But you might be better off asking. Just keep circling until you find it.

Entree
$ $5 or less
$$ $10 or less
$$$ $15 or less
$$$$ more than $15

SERVICES

Unlike LA where you might have to drive 10 miles to find basic services, Boston is densely populated and visitors are rarely more than a few blocks from whatever they need. Here we provide a descriptive list of basic services you might need while you're in town.

BAG STORAGE

The first rule of travel is to pack half what you think you need but carry twice as much money. So hopefully you arrive in Boston with very few bags. In any case you might need to store your bags for a few hours upon arrival, or on the last day in town while you explore before you leave. There are no storage facilities at South Station (bus or train terminals). If you have reservations at a hotel you can usually leave your bags at the front desk even if it's too early to check in. If you don't have reservations, or if your hotel or hostel is a bit far from town just stop in any major hotel and ask for the concierge. Explain that you are a wary traveler from far afield and that you're desperate to drop your bags for awhile. Most are happy to mind your bags behind the counter especially if you drop two or three dollars as a tip. Ask for a baggage claim check just in case. Then take advantage of the restrooms while you're there.

RESTROOMS

See the Boston Visitor's Center at the Boston Common, the National Park Service on State Street, the Boston Public Libraries, and the food court at the Prudential Center. You'll also find a fancy, self-cleaning, pay toilet on Congress Street at Court Street. Try it, it's fun.

SOUVENIRS

Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall. Hands down the most popular and accessible place to find souvenirs in the city. Everything from shamrock shotglases to Cheers hats and Boston sweatshirts. The stalls and stores at Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall carry every imaginable article emblazoned with the word Boston. If you're looking for expensive but authentic sports memorabilia from the city's wicked pisser champion teams visit Fenway Park and TD BankNorth Garden. You'll see Red Sox, Celtics, Patriots, and Bruins caps and gear around the city. Many of these souvenirs are legal (look for the relevant hologram logo) but not all. Use caution and trust your gut. Remember: a big price tag doesn't guarantee authenticity.

Also look for the National Park Service information center and gift shop on State Street (next to the Old State House). Here you'll find a good selection of interesting books, toys, and games all with at least bit of historical relevance. Great for the whole family.

POST OFFICES

Unlike other cities around America (I'm talking to you Tampa!) Boston has a US Post Office in every neighborhood. Hours and services vary by location. The main post office in the region is tucked behind South Station at Fort Point. It's open from 6:00AM to midnight every day. To get there walk down Summer Street past the South Station train terminal. Take a right on Dorchester Avenue (known locally as Dot Ave.). If you cross the bridge over Fort Point Channel you've gone too far, turn around and try again.

ADDRESS HOURS
LaFayette Station (Chinatown) 7 Avenue de LafayetteMonday to Friday 7:30AM - 6:00PM Saturday 7:30AM - 1:00PM Sunday Closed
Milk Street (Financial District) 31 Milk Street Monday - Friday 7:30AM - 7:00PM Saturday - Sunday Closed
Fort Point (South Station) 25 Dorchester Avenue Daily 6:00AM - 11:58PM
State House (Beacon Hill) 24 Beacon Street Monday to Friday 9:00AM - 5:00PM Saturday and Sunday Closed
Faneuil Hall (Quincy Market) 1 Faneuil Hall SquareMonday to Friday 9:30AM - 5:00PM Saturday and Sunday Closed

GROCERIES

Boston has dozens of grocery options varying from fine Italian bakers and cheese shops (North End) to specialty groceries that sell rattle snake (Savenors on Charles Street) to discount super markets (Super 88) to high-end chains like Whole Foods and Trader Joes. Visitors will also find fruit stands sprinkled across the city (downtown) and plenty of snack foods and drinks at shops like CVS, Walgreens, and Rite Aid. Don't forget Boston's Haymarket; it smells like rotting fruit and watch your step but it's worth a visit for a bag of inexpensive (fresh) fruits and vegetables. With the notable exception of Boston's poorer neighborhoods like Roxbury, visitors to Boston are never more than a few blocks from a decent grocery store. Be flexible and you'll be fine.

Best bets:

DeLuca's has two locations: 11 Charles Street (near Beacon) and 239 Newbury Street (near Dartmouth). It's not cheap but it has a full service deli counter with high quality meats and cheeses. Also expect lots of fresh fruits and vegetables and a good wine selection.

Whole Foods at 181 Cambridge Street and several other spots around the city. This is a huge, high-end super market with salad, pizza, desert, and hot food bars in addition to the vast rows of typical groceries. The prices are bit higher than a typical grocery store but the quality merits the prices. Go!

For a 24-hour option head over to Shaw's at 53 Huntington Avenue (behind the Prudential Center). This grocery store seemingly sprawls across half of Back Bay and beyond. Everything you need can be found here. Enjoy.

LAUNDRY

In the city your best bet for laundromats is to head to the elite neighborhood Beacon Hill (surprised?). You'll find a dry cleaner on Charles Street but a self-service coin-operated laundromat at 94 West Cedar just across the street from the Charles/MGH MBTA station (behind CVS). You'll also find laundromats in the North End and South End but these are less accessible to visitors relying on public transportation. If you're not sure just ask around. These neighborhoods are densely populated and you'll find a laundromat in most neighborhoods (except Downtown).

HOSPITALS

Hopefully you never need medical care while you're on the road, and if you do we hope that you have medical insurance. In the United States you are guaranteed medical treatment at any hospital's emergency room (ER) regardless of your ability pay even if you are not insured. But each state determines how much care uninsured patients get. In Massachusetts you're in good hands and can expect decent medical care at any ER but the waiting time can get extensive and you're on your own if you need a prescription filled. Boston has some of the finest medical care in the world but also some of the longest ER wait times. Many hospitals have walk-in clinics but check with your insurance carrier to see if they'll pay for a walk-in visit (many don't) they might direct you to the ER instead.

Remember, in an emergency dial 9-1-1 from any phone.

BEACON HILL

Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH)
55 Fruit Street
Boston, MA 02114

Telephone: 617 726 2000
TDD Phone: 617 724 8800

To get there take the Red Line to Charles/MGH. Walk downstairs and through the fare gate. (Look for the signs for MGH.) Go out the door and take a right. Cross the street (Cambridge Street) and take a right again. Walk one block and take a left on North Grove Street. The entrance is straight ahead.

CHINATOWN/DOWNTOWN

Tufts Medical Center

Tufts Medical Center
800 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02111

Telephone: 617 636 5000

To get there take the Orange Line to Tufts Medical Center. Walk upstairs and cross the street.

FENWAY

Brigham and Women's Hospital
75 Francis Street
Boston, MA 02115

Telephone: 617 732 5500
TTD Phone: 617 732 6458

To get there take the Green Line (E) to Brigham Circle.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Boston is a vibrant, fun city with a long list of free and inexpensive activities and sights. For current ideas on what to see and do when you get to Boston pick up the Boston Phoenix (free on corners around the city) when you get to town. Then head to the National Park Service Visitors' Center on State Street (next to the Old State House on the Orange and Blue Lines) and ask about free walking tours and coupons for museums. Below you'll find a brief list of great activities and sights in Boston but you should explore the city and ask around, there's always something to do.

FREE

Boston Common

In the heart of Downtown Boston between Boylston, Park, Tremont, Beacon, and Charles Streets |Boston Common isn't the prettiest park in town but it's worth a visit. In the summer enjoy the musicians, performers, demonstrations, and general mayhem. In the winter make a snowman or have a snowball fight. Look for the visitor information center (restrooms inside) where you can pick up a free guided tour of Downtown led by a costumed volunteer.

Take the Red or Green Line (B, C, D, E) to Park Street.

Public Garden

Pick a bench and sit. The Public Garden is one of the prettiest spots in any city in the country. Enjoy the trees, squirrels, and swans. Watch the crowds and listen to the music. Enjoy.

Take the Green Line (B, C, D, E) to Arlington Street or walk there from anywhere in town, it's across Charles Street from the Boston Common.

Boston Public Library

Boston Public Library
700 Boylston Street
Telephone: 617 536 5400
Hours: Monday - Thursday 9:00AM to 9:00PM and Friday and Saturday 9:00AM to 5:00PM

A million books, historic photographs, newspapers, magazines, changing art displays, and museum quality murals and statues, what's not to love? Laze out in the courtyard and you'll forget that you're in the heart of the city. Look up at the clear blue sky and relax, you deserve it. Stop in and ask for a list of upcoming events, this library has a lot more to offer than books.

Take the Green Line (B, C, D, E) to Copley Square.

Museum of Fine Arts

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
465 Huntington Avenue
Boston, Massachusetts 02115

Telephone: 617 267 9300

Housing one of the most inspired collections of classic paintings, statues, sculptures, and various exhibits, the MFA deserves several visits. You'll have your chance every Wednesday evening when the museum opens its doors and holds an “admission fee optional” night. For most folks that means free. You'll get to enjoy thousands of important and lesser-known works for about five hours but the special exhibits require a separate paid admission.

Take the Green Line (E) to Museum of Fine Arts stop.

Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA)

The Institute of Contemporary Art
100 Northern Avenue
Boston, MA 02210

Telephone: 617 478 3100

If nothing else, go for the view. The ICA recently moved to its new home on the waterfront near Fort Point Channel. Designed by the novel architectural firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the ICA features a cantilever seating area that overlooks Boston Harbor. And the changing art exhibits feature some of the most inspired, interesting and odd displays you'll ever see. Did we mention it's free, but only on Thursday evenings?

From South Station take the Silver Line to the World Trade Center and walk to the water front or walk along Atlantic Avenue to Congress Street, take a right and look for the ICA on your left.

Schoenhof's Foreign Books
76 A Mount Auburn Street
Cambridge, MA 02138

Telephone: 617 547 8855

Hours: Monday to Friday 10:00 AM to 8:00PM, Saturday till 6:00PM, and Sunday noon to 5:00PM

Browse shelves lined with nothing but thousands of foreign language books, foreign and non-fiction. Read Hamlet in Czeck or Dr. Seuss in Swahili. Have fun. To get there take the Red Line to Harvard Square. Take the main exit and at the top of the escalator head left on JFK Street. Turn left at Mt. Auburn Street. Schoenhof's is a few blocks down on your right.

$10 OR LESS

Skating at Frog Pond

Frog Pond on Boston Common
Season Opens: November 19th each year

Telephone: 617 635 2120

Every winter Boston fills the shallow, concrete Frog Pond with a few inches of water, lets it freeze and then maintains a fun, welcoming skating rink. Admission is $4.00 and you can rent skates on-site for $5.00. The hours vary but the rink stays open till 10:00PM on some nights. Expect crowds on most days but everyone's having fun so it's worth a trip.

Boston Children's Museum

Boston Children's Museum
300 Congress Street
Boston, MA 02210

Telephone: 617 426 6500
Don't let the name fool you, sure it's geared toward children but who doesn't love a museum. And the location is great. Near the waterfront, along Fort Point Channel, just a block from South Station. The museum offers a deep discount every Friday evening. Entrance is only $1.00 for everyone.

To get there just walk one block south on Summer Street from South Station. Look for the giant Hood milk bottle out front.

SPLURGE

Boston Red Sox

It's a well-known secret around Boston that fans can buy tickets from the box office on game day. Just line up by Gate A on Lansdowne Street about two hours before game time. Enjoy the crowds, noise, and flavors and ask the guy or gal behind you to hold your spot while you run off to buy a sausage sandwich. When the window opens the line moves quickly and tickets go fast. There's no guarantee you'll get a seat (especially when the Yankees are in town) and you won't have much selection but it's well worth the effort. You might have a chance to buy a Monster seat ($120!) but you'll probably enjoy a standing room only spot just as much for $25.00. Just ask what's available when you get there.

After you buy your ticket at the window you have to enter the ballpark immediately. This prevents scalpers from buying game day tickets and selling them in front of the window. Also, avoid bringing any bags to the park except for a purse, but cameras and binoculars are welcome. Enjoy!

MUST SEE

If you only have one day in town consider this:

You're in town for the day, maybe on a layover up to Maine or on a daytrip from New York City. You only have one day in town and you want to make the most of it. From South Station Bus Terminal take a right on Atlantic Avenue and follow the recently created Rose Kennedy Greenway north. Just look for the strip of parkland that winds its way between the city's waterfront and financial district. If you can't find the Greenway just ask, maybe someone will know what you mean but for now it's so new that most folks will look at you with at least a little confusion. Follow the Greenway to Quincy Market - that's the set of large granite buildings on your left with all the crowds. Dive into the mob and slip into the old Quincy Market building (it's the one in the middle). Inside you'll find dozens of small restaurants. The crowds will drive you nuts and the food is a buck or two more than it would be anywhere else but the smells and flavors are worth the trouble. Grab some pizza or a sausage and walk back to the Greenway. Eat your lunch in the sun and make your way across the road to the waterfront. This time look for the Aquarium. Don't go in. The crowds are thick and it's not cheap. Save your time and money and walk/sit along the waterfront for an hour or so. Then cut through Christopher Columbus Park (next to the Long Wharf Marriott) and look for Richmond Street. Cross Atlantic Avenue (watch out for the traffic) and head straight up Richmond Street. Now you're in the North End. At North Street look right - that old, grey, wooden building is Paul Revere's house ($3.50). It's worth a side trip. Take the twenty-minute self-guided tour and experience 18th century life in Boston. When you're done head back outside, take a right on Richmond Street again and walk one more block to Hanover Street. Now you're really in the North End. Take a right and follow the crowds. Along the way pick up the Freedom Trail (free) and follow it to Old North Church (free) and slip inside (again, mind the crowds). Relax in a pew and imagine 18th century Boston. Now step outside and you're on Salem Street. Take a left. Walk to the end of the road and look for the Rose Kennedy Greenway (it's that pretty strip of green straight ahead). Take a left at the Greenway and walk back to South Station Bus Terminal.

TIME: Allow at least four hours for this itinerary. If the weather is fine expect to spend the whole day.
COST: About $10 for lunch plus admission to the Paul Revere House.

SUGGESTED SIDE TRIPS

You've come this far why not spend a day or two exploring the region. You can walk to Cambridge from anywhere in Downtown Boston so that's an easy and obvious choice. But don't forget Provincetown at the tip of Cape Cod. It's a short trip by ferry in the summer and well worth the side trip.

CAMBRIDGE

Just across the river from Boston you'll find Cambridge. Originally called New Towne, Cambridge was designed to be the capital of Massachusetts Bay Colony but that never came to be. Now Cambridge is home to several colleges and universities including the world-renowned Harvard and the Massachusets Institute of Technology. Both campuses are worth a visit; Harvard is a sprawling city unto itself stretching across Cambridge and the Charles River and spilling in to Boston. MIT has several grand buildings along the Charles River as well. For a lazy adventure walk from MIT to Harvard along Memorial Drive, the winding road that follows the Charles. It's a beautiful place to walk, run, bike, or skate and during the summer the road is closed to vehicular traffic every Sunday morning. When you get to Harvard University look for the eponymous Harvard Square. Here you'll find a few bookstores (though fewer than a few years ago), plenty of shops, a couple newsstands, and lots of food. We recommend lunch at Border Cafe on Church Street. It's affordable and tasty Cajun-Tex-Mex. If you can, get there mid-afternoon on a weekday. On weekends the restaurant hires an off-duty police officer to mind the crowds outside. That tells you how popular the place can be.

PROVINCETOWN

Go for the ride. Provincetown is a haven for beach lovers, food lovers, and well, lovers in general. If you love the ocean take a day and visit Provincetown by ferry. There's a fast ferry but we recommend the slow ferry - it's three hours each way and allows a lazy three hours in Provincetown to get lunch, shop, and hang out. Very much worth the trip if you enjoy being on the water. Bring a book and a drink but save your appetite for Provincetown.

For this daytrip you need to take |Bay State Cruise Company's Excursion Service (Provincetown II) which only operates on Saturdays and only in high summer meaning the end of June to early September. The current fare is $44.00 roundtrip for an adult, children are free but look out for fuel surcharges.

The ferry leaves promptly at 9:00AM and you have to buy a ticket at the window before you can board so get there early and expect at least a short line. The dock is in an awkward area of Boston, just a few long blocks from South Station and the Financial District but it can be a bit of a walk on a Saturday morning. Give yourself a little extra time to get there because it can be hard to spot from the road.

To get to the ferry from South Station and the bus terminal take a right on Summer Street and walk across Fort Point Channel. A few blocks after you cross the channel start looking for the massive hulking silver structure on your right, that's the Boston Convention and Exhibit Center. Take your next left on World Trade Center Avenue and hike up the slow incline. On the other side walk downstairs to the street level and look for the ticket window.

You can take the Silver Line from South Station to the World Trade Center stop but it's only a 15-minute walk and you might spend that long getting to the Silver Line, buying a ticket, waiting for the bus and then walking from the stop to the ferry slip. It can be worth the trouble if you're tired, don't like the look of the walk, or if you really, really like buses. Just head downstairs at the South Station train terminal, pay your fare ($2.00) and head down one more level to the mezzanine. All Silver Line buses from South Station stop at the World Trade Center. This is your best option if you're arriving to South Station by Red Line anyway. The transfer is free and easy (just walk up stairs to the mezzanine level from the Red Line platform).

Your third choice is a taxi. Just tell them you're going to the Bay State Cruise Company at the World Trade Center. It's about $5 plus tip from South Station, higher from other points. It might be worth the trouble if you're in a hurry. Remember, the ferry leaves at 9:00AM and waits for no one.

There are several bridges that cross Fort Point Channel. If you're walking from anywhere in the North End, Government Center, or the Financial District cross at Northern Avenue, Seaport Boulevard, or Congress Street and walk straight a few blocks till you see the docks on your left. It might get a little confusing with ongoing construction in the area but you know the boat is in the water so follow your nose and eyes and you'll be fine. As always, ask when needed.

COMING AND GOING

Boston is a full-service transportation hub with Amtrak train service, a handy international airport, intercity buses, commuter trains, local buses, taxi and ferries. Few cities match Boston in great transportation options. But the city is not without its problems.

TRAINS

Most Amtrak and many commuter train schedules to and from Boston arrive and depart from South Station right next door to the South Station Bus Terminal. But if you're heading to Maine on Amtrak's Downeaster or up to Salem or Newburyport by commuter rail you'll need to find your way to North Station. Despite years of discussion, broken promises, best intentions and good ideas there is no North-South connection in Boston. To get South Station to North Station you'll have to take the MBTA Red Line subway INBOUND (toward Alewife) two stops and get out at Park Street. (You can get out at Downtown Crossing but the connections are less frequent.) At Park Street take the MBTA Green Line EASTBOUND toward North Station or Lechmere (skip the trains going to Government Center, they don't go where you're going.) Get out at North Station, only three stops, and follow the crowds through the tunnel and up the stairs/escalator to North Station. Follow this route in reverse to get back to South Station.

MBTA subway service costs $2.00 per person per ride without a free Charlie Card (see a station agent to get one). If you have a few bags and friend or two you might want to take a taxi between South and North Stations. The fare will run around $10.00 plus tip but it might be worth it to you to avoid finding the subway, switching trains and making your way up and down the stairs. Solo travelers with a light bag (the smart way to travel) will be just fine on the subway and should avoid taxis if possible.

PLANES

Boston's Logan International Airport is just a few miles from South Station Bus Terminal and downtown. Most days you can see the airport and its control tower from anywhere along the waterfront but alas, you can't walk there. Instead, take the MBTA's Silver Line (SL1) Bus Rapid Transit service from South Station (on the mezzanine level below the train station). The fare is $2.00 and although it's just a glorified bus service it's pretty handy and fast to get to the airport, especially from South Station. Expect crowds at any time of day or night.

Your other best option is to take the MBTA's Blue Line subway service to and from the airport (again, $2.00). You'll have to switch to a free shuttle bus at the Airport station but just be glad you didn't try this a few years ago, before the renovations. The new station has escalators, wide gates and lots of light.

Finally, Peter Pan and a few other bus lines offer continuing service from outside of Boston to South Station Bus Terminal and on to Logan Airport. It doesn't make sense to take an intercity coach from the terminal to the airport unless you're coming from outside of Boston (Worcester, Framingham, Hartford, Amherst) but you can if you want to. Typical fares range from $7-10 and the ride takes about 20 minutes depending on traffic.

BOATS

During the warmer, summer months, Boston is well served by cruise ship lines, mostly to Bermuda, Maine and Canada with occasional service to Europe. So some folks in the region (New York, New England) can take a bus and catch a cruise out of Boston. Unusual, but possible. You'll need to get to Boston's Black Falcon Cruise Terminal which is a short walk on a good day with light luggage or a cheap taxi ride away from South Station Bus Terminal. But most folks will take the MBTA's Silver Line [SL2] service.

To walk to Black Falcon Cruise Terminal from South Station Bus Terminal, take a right out of the bus terminal and your next right at Summer Street. Walk straight for one mile, the cruise terminal is on your left. The walk is safe though unimpressive and might be too long for some folks. The good news is that you'll pass three taxi stands in front of the bus and train stations so if you change your mind about walking you have a few options. That being said, a taxi ride from the bus terminal to the cruise terminal should take less than 10 minutes including traffic and cost about $10 including tip. A fair price on a cold day or if you have a small group or a lot of luggage.

To take the MBTA's Silver Line bus rapid transit to the cruise terminal, walk to South Station (right next door to the bus terminal) and head downstairs. Pay your fare ($2.00 without a Charlie Card) and head down one more level to the mezzanine. You're looking for Silver Line 2 (SL2) not the more frequent SL1 which serves the airport. As always, if you're not sure if the bus is going where you are, ask the driver.

NEARBY CITIES

 
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